The greatest treasures of the Nomads of Central Asia

Turkmen jewelry over the past few decades has become a target of pursuit not only for private collectors and museums, but also for admirers of unusual ornaments. Massive silver ornaments of simple form decorated with ornaments have long aroused interest and admiration among fans of ethnic jewelry. After all, jewelry is one of the greatest elements of Turkmen material culture. What are the greatest treasures of the Nomads when it comes to these original by comparison with others "shiny things"?

The function of jewelry and glitter of the Tekke tribe

Turkmen tribes are famous for producing jewelry with saturated shades of red, but also geometric medallions. Jewelry not only serves a basic decorative function, but also manifests social status and position in tribal culture. Through jewelry, the tribe tries to prove who its members really are and how they should be treated. Thus, for example, we have a pendant called a gondschuk, which has been worn on the chest by Turkmen since the dawn of time. It's hard to determine its original function, meaning and origins today, but it is assumed that this item was worn by the more wealthy and respected members of the tribe.

Most Nomad jewelry dates from the second half of the 19th century. Some unique pieces can be found in private collections, such as the collection of Rene van der Star of Amsterdam. In particular, the jewelry of the Tekke tribe is most valued - it is characterized by significant size, and the individual pieces are massive, with geometric forms. Nomads from this tribe applied symmetrical engravings to jewelry, composing them with gilded ornaments. Most often, they contrasted with the smooth (possibly openwork) surface of the highest-grade silver plate.

Who were the makers of Turkmen jewelry?

It is still mentioned that Turkmen craftsmen most often came from agricultural groups - they wandered and made jewelry mainly on orders from members of Nomadic groups. However, they had to be exceptionally artistically gifted people in order to get the perfect shape of the ornament. Intense production of jewelry increased in the 19th century, thanks to the significant enrichment of many tribes (especially the already mentioned Tekke tribe).

Turkmen tribes were therefore able to buy more and more jewelry, making it an excellent... investment. The ornaments were a great security especially for multi-generational families, acting as a kind of capital - after all, they could be exchanged for food or other goods, especially in a crisis situation.

Turkmen jewelry - the importance of carnelians

For camismation (that is, blasting metal with precious stones) Turkmen once used only carnelians - i.e. semi-precious stones, which are a variety of chalcedony. Traditional Turkmen ornaments were generally carnelians in a wide range of colors - from orange to luscious red. The tribe cut such stones into oval and flat shapes. At the beginning of the 20th century, rhomboidal forms could also be seen, with which carnelians began to be replaced. Glass, almond-shaped eyes and beads in different colors - blue or black - appeared.

Why were the Nomads of Central Asia inclined to use carnelian? Well, it is related to the symbolism of the stone's colors - in Old Persian it is called simply... quetzal. Its intense color is also dominant in the cobblestones and textiles of the Turkmen - for it is associated with fertility, love, vitality, and also with... sacrifice. Nomads associate the color of blood with the color of life, so this is where their fondness for carnelians comes from.

Women's ornaments, amulets and "braids"

The fact is that Turkmen jewelry was most often worn by women. Thanks to it, it was known how status in the family and in the community each of them possessed. Sumptuous and often varied in form jewelry was an integral part of the clothing of a female tribal resident - i.e. a long dress, a headdress called a khalat and wide and loose pants. Necklaces, pendants and heavy bracelets were often even overwhelming in size, but the jewelry looked... subtle. Plant ornaments attracted the most attention. Alongside them, there were also engraved designs almost abstract, still derived from traditional ornamental motifs (during the time of totemic cults).

A typical form of Turkmen jewelry are amulettes, where scrolls with quotations from the Quran were hidden. Among them can be distinguished tumor, which is a horizontal sleeve ending in a flat helm. Such amulets are a real treasure of the Nomads! They were generally decorated with filigree and carnelians. The amulet is also a chejkel, that is, a flat box in the shape of a square. Another decoration is the so-called "braid" - a flat and heavy heart-shaped badge, ending in a narrow sleeve. Thread or string was threaded through it and the ornament was attached to two braided braids. Such a braid was called an asik - it was meant to serve as protection against evil spirits, especially worn on the back. This is one of the more intriguing Nomadic treasures especially since the largest braids could weigh over... 1 kg!

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The Waziris: culture, heritage and modernity of a Pashtun tribe

What is Fire Agate and Why is it Not Just a Regular Agate?

Himba nation - unusual jewelry of the Red Women

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